The last day vibrated with energy - knowing we were at the end gave everything a heightened sensibility. The group rode a gentle, flat 40 miles to the St. Augustine fire station. I hosted the last sag stop at 20 miles but everybody was too keyed up to pay much attention to food and water.
At the fire station we lined up by twos according to age, oldest riders at the front. The St. Augustine police escorted us the final 7 miles through town, onto Anastasia Island, and to the end of the road and the Atlantic Ocean.
Joyous faces greeted us. Many riders had family and friends cheering our arrival. I spotted Zack (my 23 year old son) in the crowd and broke ranks to give him a huge hug. I cannot express my joy at being in the presence of total support and unconditional love. Thank you Zack - you rock - not to mention looked handsome as hell.
We dipped our tires in the ocean, raised our bikes in the air in triumph, and took a zillion pictures. We ate a picnic lunch with family and friends.
We rode to the local bike shops only to discover that somebody had neglected to remind them we were coming and they were all out of bike boxes for weeks. Once more, Michelle to the rescue, and by dinner time our bikes were being shipped.
Final banquet - speeches - hugs and kisses - many genuine tender moments - some awkward moments - I'm not ncessesarily at my best at these things. Back at the hotel a small group heads out for Mojitos and Latin dancing. I grab Zack and join them. He is so cool! He dances with everybody and we all have fun.
The next morning there is much laughter outside my door. I hide in my room. I can't handle any more goodbyes. I don't want any more awkward moments. It's over. It was challenging, it was wonderful. I am looking forward to TransAmerica.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
From Fast to Slow to All Alone
Yesterday I rode with Candice, Dawn and Sandra. They are the meanderers. They take their time, smell (and photograph) the flowers, and are often the last riders in. It was a GRAND day. 84 miles felt like nothing - really, truly. The weather was sunny and warm, but not too warm. The wind was at our backs. The roads were flat and silky smooth. Wild flowers were in bloom by the roadsides. Huge swathes of intense yellow bending in the gentle breeze, magenta, light purple and red.
Sandra and I both got flats and holes in our tires and Candice repaired them with dollar bills (all without ever taking the wheel off the bike, no less). She has got to be one of the most cheerful people I have ever met. We visited Itchy-something springs and got milk shakes at Floyds. It was a perfect day.
By the way, when I rode with the fast pace line my average was 15.5 but that was because I was lolligagging by myself before I joined up with them. When riding with them we were doing 18-19.
Tomorrow is the last day of the trip - we ride into St. Augustine, but today was my last real day of cycling because tomorrow I sag. I will get to ride the last few miles to the beach where we will dip our front tires into the Atlantic Ocean. I rode with the fast people, I rode with the slow people, so today I decided to ride alone. I focused on the motion of my body moving on my bike. I paid attention to how I felt, how comfortable I've become on my bike, and how strong.
For the last 20 miles I rode with Arda and Jan which was nice because I rode with them during the last part of the 107 mile day and they really helped get me through it.
So here I am, almost done! We have cycled on interstate highways with giant Walmart Trucks whose passing whoosh tugs at your bike and on deserted winding back roads. We have climbed hills topping out at 17% grade and cruised miles of flat. We have ridden into head winds so strong they nearly defied forward progress and have been buffeted by frighteningly powerful gusts. We have been nudged along by friendly tail winds. We survived hot, humid, days in the high nineties, sweat stinging our eyes, and freezing rain that turned our hands and feet numb.
I have seen thousands of cans by the side of the road. Invest in Bud Light. I have cycled by levees, and farms, and falling down houses with expensive cars parked out front. I have seen thousands of horses but only once have I seen somebody riding one. I have seen the "Southern Tier" of this country in a way you never could from a car.
Tomorrow we ride to St. Augustine and have our final banquet- stand by!
Sandra and I both got flats and holes in our tires and Candice repaired them with dollar bills (all without ever taking the wheel off the bike, no less). She has got to be one of the most cheerful people I have ever met. We visited Itchy-something springs and got milk shakes at Floyds. It was a perfect day.
By the way, when I rode with the fast pace line my average was 15.5 but that was because I was lolligagging by myself before I joined up with them. When riding with them we were doing 18-19.
Tomorrow is the last day of the trip - we ride into St. Augustine, but today was my last real day of cycling because tomorrow I sag. I will get to ride the last few miles to the beach where we will dip our front tires into the Atlantic Ocean. I rode with the fast people, I rode with the slow people, so today I decided to ride alone. I focused on the motion of my body moving on my bike. I paid attention to how I felt, how comfortable I've become on my bike, and how strong.
For the last 20 miles I rode with Arda and Jan which was nice because I rode with them during the last part of the 107 mile day and they really helped get me through it.
So here I am, almost done! We have cycled on interstate highways with giant Walmart Trucks whose passing whoosh tugs at your bike and on deserted winding back roads. We have climbed hills topping out at 17% grade and cruised miles of flat. We have ridden into head winds so strong they nearly defied forward progress and have been buffeted by frighteningly powerful gusts. We have been nudged along by friendly tail winds. We survived hot, humid, days in the high nineties, sweat stinging our eyes, and freezing rain that turned our hands and feet numb.
I have seen thousands of cans by the side of the road. Invest in Bud Light. I have cycled by levees, and farms, and falling down houses with expensive cars parked out front. I have seen thousands of horses but only once have I seen somebody riding one. I have seen the "Southern Tier" of this country in a way you never could from a car.
Tomorrow we ride to St. Augustine and have our final banquet- stand by!
Monday, April 28, 2008
Happy Again / Bike Seat Blues
It doesn't take too much to make me happy.
Today I rode in a pace line with 4 of the stronger riders. The ride was 52 miles and I averaged 15.5 - way fast for me. This is not something I accomplished on my own. A pace line allows you to go faster because the front rider cuts the wind. I am psyched because I was able to keep up (although I was not able to lead) and I am getting more comfortable in a pace line. Thank you to Ellen, Hannah, Mary and Judy.
By the way, it rained. Only our third time to ride in the rain. We have been most fortunate with weather.
I am also happy because my eating has been better. That always makes a big difference for me. Being with the group and eating well for my body has been a balancing act. I just passed on lunch at an Italian restaurant. I would have enjoyed the comeraderie but the picky way I order irks some people and Italian is tough in the first place. Sometimes it is hard for me to know what constitutes taking care of myself.
Bike seat blues. After my last tumble I had to replace my right shifter/brake mechanism. The bike shop put my bike on a rack which necessatated moving the seat and I haven't been able to get it quite right since. First it was too high, then too low, then twisted a smidge to the left.... I haven't had any real body problems on this trip but since the seat thing my left calf has been cramping, my left quad had been sore and my right hip has been achy.
So last night I treated myself to a massage and it was great, a structural integration type massage. The fellow was a great masseuse with a great life story. Robert was in a head on collision with a drunk driver who was killed. Robert was told he would never walk again. A judge awarded him the drivers estate, 2.4 million, to be used to make himself as whole as possible which was fortunate because the insurance companies pretty much refused most treatments as "experimental" because they considered his case hopeless. He learned of a French doctor who replaces vertebrae with ceramic prostheses and artificial disks and he was able to fly the French doctor to this country to get the surgery. Robert also has an artificial hip and other parts (I can't remember all of them). He had to give up soccer but he bikes - has done a few centuries - and because structural integration was a big part of his amazing recovery he found a new career.
Tomorrow is an 80-something ride, the day after is 70-something, then the last day! Even after all this riding I still feel a mite apprehensive when the next day is a long mileage one.
I really appreciate your comments! Hearing that another sag driver took grief, another person swam with a cell phone, another rider whose best friend was her bike, friends who take the time to follow - well - I feel cheered by every comment. Thanks!
Today I rode in a pace line with 4 of the stronger riders. The ride was 52 miles and I averaged 15.5 - way fast for me. This is not something I accomplished on my own. A pace line allows you to go faster because the front rider cuts the wind. I am psyched because I was able to keep up (although I was not able to lead) and I am getting more comfortable in a pace line. Thank you to Ellen, Hannah, Mary and Judy.
By the way, it rained. Only our third time to ride in the rain. We have been most fortunate with weather.
I am also happy because my eating has been better. That always makes a big difference for me. Being with the group and eating well for my body has been a balancing act. I just passed on lunch at an Italian restaurant. I would have enjoyed the comeraderie but the picky way I order irks some people and Italian is tough in the first place. Sometimes it is hard for me to know what constitutes taking care of myself.
Bike seat blues. After my last tumble I had to replace my right shifter/brake mechanism. The bike shop put my bike on a rack which necessatated moving the seat and I haven't been able to get it quite right since. First it was too high, then too low, then twisted a smidge to the left.... I haven't had any real body problems on this trip but since the seat thing my left calf has been cramping, my left quad had been sore and my right hip has been achy.
So last night I treated myself to a massage and it was great, a structural integration type massage. The fellow was a great masseuse with a great life story. Robert was in a head on collision with a drunk driver who was killed. Robert was told he would never walk again. A judge awarded him the drivers estate, 2.4 million, to be used to make himself as whole as possible which was fortunate because the insurance companies pretty much refused most treatments as "experimental" because they considered his case hopeless. He learned of a French doctor who replaces vertebrae with ceramic prostheses and artificial disks and he was able to fly the French doctor to this country to get the surgery. Robert also has an artificial hip and other parts (I can't remember all of them). He had to give up soccer but he bikes - has done a few centuries - and because structural integration was a big part of his amazing recovery he found a new career.
Tomorrow is an 80-something ride, the day after is 70-something, then the last day! Even after all this riding I still feel a mite apprehensive when the next day is a long mileage one.
I really appreciate your comments! Hearing that another sag driver took grief, another person swam with a cell phone, another rider whose best friend was her bike, friends who take the time to follow - well - I feel cheered by every comment. Thanks!
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Florida Panhandle
Three days ago I felt unbelievably strong! My legs were bursting with energy! I went flying by people who I usually work to keep up with. It was glorious and great fun.
But yesterday and the day before were awful. My legs felt heavy and weak and I had no energy. I couldn't keep up with people who I usually pass with ease. It was hot and humid and there was a headwind - but that was the same for everybody so I don't know what was up. It was discouraging.
Why are some days so fun, easy, and filled with vitality - while other days you just slog away?
Today I sagged and had a run in with two of the riders. I do try to serve with cheer and patience and most people are appreciative but these two women got really angry with me about a misunderstanding about where I was going to be and when - and I have a very hard time with anger being directed at me. I am shaken. I spoke with Michelle, our guide, about what happened and she supported my actions and told me she had taken similar grief. That made me feel a bit better.
We are staying at Wakulla Springs in the Florida Panhandle, near Tallahassee. Many of the women went to the state park and went swimming and on a boat tour where they saw egrets, alligators, mullets and lots of wildlife. As sag I sat in the hot Walmart parking lot. I have to keep reminding myself that the money I saved by sagging bought me my wonderful Serotta bike that has made riding these many miles such a pleasure. And tomorrow is a rest day so I do get to go to the state park!
Less than a week to the end of this adventure - I cannot believe I have (almost) cycled across the country. Thinking about going? Go!
But yesterday and the day before were awful. My legs felt heavy and weak and I had no energy. I couldn't keep up with people who I usually pass with ease. It was hot and humid and there was a headwind - but that was the same for everybody so I don't know what was up. It was discouraging.
Why are some days so fun, easy, and filled with vitality - while other days you just slog away?
Today I sagged and had a run in with two of the riders. I do try to serve with cheer and patience and most people are appreciative but these two women got really angry with me about a misunderstanding about where I was going to be and when - and I have a very hard time with anger being directed at me. I am shaken. I spoke with Michelle, our guide, about what happened and she supported my actions and told me she had taken similar grief. That made me feel a bit better.
We are staying at Wakulla Springs in the Florida Panhandle, near Tallahassee. Many of the women went to the state park and went swimming and on a boat tour where they saw egrets, alligators, mullets and lots of wildlife. As sag I sat in the hot Walmart parking lot. I have to keep reminding myself that the money I saved by sagging bought me my wonderful Serotta bike that has made riding these many miles such a pleasure. And tomorrow is a rest day so I do get to go to the state park!
Less than a week to the end of this adventure - I cannot believe I have (almost) cycled across the country. Thinking about going? Go!
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Mississippi to Alabama to Florida
We spent a wonderful day off on Dauphin Island, Alabama. The sand is sugary, soft and white. The water is 73 degrees. Our condos were right on the ocean! Oh my - heaven. (To a beach person like myself.) Between our condo and the beach were two pools, quite lovely when lit from below, but pools nonetheless. Most of the women chose to loll by the pools which is totally inconceivable to me. I played in the ocean and walked on the beach. Walking on the beach is on my "top ten" list.
Shrimp. I am totally ruined for shrimp. The shrimp in Alabama is fresh and what a difference it makes. In Boston it always comes previously frozen, no matter how high end the fish market. It's expensive and tastes like cardboard compared to the shrimp here. I bought shrimp at a market - the woman said her two sons support their families as shrimpers and she sells all they catch. She steamed them for me (mild, medium or hot) for $5.75 a pound for medium and $7.50 a pound for jumbo - and man oh man were they amazing.
The Alabama coast was beautiful. We rode into Florida but it was unmarked because the sign blew down during Katrina three years ago. Mary's brother in law owns a condo on the route and he painted a big "welcome Mary" sign and draped it over his car, so that was our welcome to Florida.
Florida - our last state! Hard to believe we have just one more week and we will have traversed the country. I think you could pop me down on a stretch of highway and I could look at the road conditions, the road kill, the plants, and know where I was!
Tommorow is a 90 miler but I am thinking of adding 10 to get in a third century ride. I am feeling so strong on my bike. The biggest hurdles for me have been social, in some ways feeling like I'm back in high school, and dietary, being away from the foods that keep me feeling safe and nourished and instead being surrounded "binge" foods. But dealing with these challenges has been strengthening too and I am already thinking about my next bike adventure.
Shrimp. I am totally ruined for shrimp. The shrimp in Alabama is fresh and what a difference it makes. In Boston it always comes previously frozen, no matter how high end the fish market. It's expensive and tastes like cardboard compared to the shrimp here. I bought shrimp at a market - the woman said her two sons support their families as shrimpers and she sells all they catch. She steamed them for me (mild, medium or hot) for $5.75 a pound for medium and $7.50 a pound for jumbo - and man oh man were they amazing.
The Alabama coast was beautiful. We rode into Florida but it was unmarked because the sign blew down during Katrina three years ago. Mary's brother in law owns a condo on the route and he painted a big "welcome Mary" sign and draped it over his car, so that was our welcome to Florida.
Florida - our last state! Hard to believe we have just one more week and we will have traversed the country. I think you could pop me down on a stretch of highway and I could look at the road conditions, the road kill, the plants, and know where I was!
Tommorow is a 90 miler but I am thinking of adding 10 to get in a third century ride. I am feeling so strong on my bike. The biggest hurdles for me have been social, in some ways feeling like I'm back in high school, and dietary, being away from the foods that keep me feeling safe and nourished and instead being surrounded "binge" foods. But dealing with these challenges has been strengthening too and I am already thinking about my next bike adventure.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Upsidedown in Mississippi/Bayou Sara/Thoughts
Yesterday we rode into Mississippi. Margarita party! (every time we cross a state line).
I needed those margaritas (yes, I had more than one) because I took another header. Either my front tire blew or I hit a big bolt in the road, I went flying over my handlebars, scudded down the road for quite a ways, all the time thinking, "when I am going to stop skidding so I can assess the damage?"
I bloodied my knee, elbow, side and shoulder, abrading large holes through my bike shirt and my skin. I hit with such impact that the road wore right through my handlebar tape and proceeded to wear away some of the handlebar itself. But once again I was lucky - nothing broken. The first two cars that went by offered assistance but I declined. I was determined to fix my flat and ride on.
And I actually did fix my flat (for the first time all by myself and while injured!) but I had damaged my pump in the fall and was unable to inflate the tire. Eventually some other riders came upon the scene, fetched the SAG, and I sagged in for the day. My bike needed some attention to be rideable and some more before it will be all better - but I was able to ride today - 75 miles into Pascagoula.
St. Francisville, Louisiana, - a few days back we had a rest day in this charming and historic town. Some of us stayed at the St. Francisville Inn, a lovely old Victorian building. I inquired of the innkeeper about the history of the building and was surprised to discover it was built by Mr. Wolf, a properous Jewish citizen. Turns out there was once a large Jewish population that established a settlement called Bayou Sara. One of the philanthropic Jewish citizens built a high school for the town which is still standing, although in seriously deteriorating condition. There is also a synagogue - boarded up. And a Jewish cemetary that is maintained by the lone surviving half-Jewish citizen. Nobody could tell me what happened to the once thriving Jewish community of St. Francisville.
Short thoughts:
Dogs. Yesterday two riders were bitten by a dog. They went to the ER and are fine. Now that we are in more populated country there are more dogs and more dogs running free. Candice blows her whistle and it stops most of them in their tracks, although one doberman appeared to be deaf, resulting in the fastest ride of her life... Sue squirts her water bottle at them. Kat sweet talks them.
There was one incident where Candice was blowing at the same time that Kat was sweet talking which made for a very confused dog.
Debbie invited one to chase her and the poor little thing (it's legs couldn't have been more than 4 inches long) kept up with her for a mile at 18 mph. Eventually it couldn't even bark and we felt so concerned that Micki, who was sagging for the day, drove it home.
Our longest day - 127 miles. Most of the women did it! Some did most of it, between 100-127. I was bummed because it was my day to sag. Actually I was fortunate because Carol rode the first 63, and voluntarily sagged the second half so I could ride the second 63. Thank you Carol! Still, I was a little sad that I didn't get to go for it.
And the bridge we were supposed to cross was OUT. Very out as in largely non-existant. Most of the riders carried their bikes over a hairy, high, falling apart bridge, and rode on. It was a great adventure. As the sag I had to detour around, boring.
Many of the women are feeling ready for the trip to be over, a little home sick, variations on these themes. Some feel tired, miss their own beds, husbands, friends. While I share some of these feelings I cannot say I am ready for the trip to be over. I feel as if I could go on forever.
I needed those margaritas (yes, I had more than one) because I took another header. Either my front tire blew or I hit a big bolt in the road, I went flying over my handlebars, scudded down the road for quite a ways, all the time thinking, "when I am going to stop skidding so I can assess the damage?"
I bloodied my knee, elbow, side and shoulder, abrading large holes through my bike shirt and my skin. I hit with such impact that the road wore right through my handlebar tape and proceeded to wear away some of the handlebar itself. But once again I was lucky - nothing broken. The first two cars that went by offered assistance but I declined. I was determined to fix my flat and ride on.
And I actually did fix my flat (for the first time all by myself and while injured!) but I had damaged my pump in the fall and was unable to inflate the tire. Eventually some other riders came upon the scene, fetched the SAG, and I sagged in for the day. My bike needed some attention to be rideable and some more before it will be all better - but I was able to ride today - 75 miles into Pascagoula.
St. Francisville, Louisiana, - a few days back we had a rest day in this charming and historic town. Some of us stayed at the St. Francisville Inn, a lovely old Victorian building. I inquired of the innkeeper about the history of the building and was surprised to discover it was built by Mr. Wolf, a properous Jewish citizen. Turns out there was once a large Jewish population that established a settlement called Bayou Sara. One of the philanthropic Jewish citizens built a high school for the town which is still standing, although in seriously deteriorating condition. There is also a synagogue - boarded up. And a Jewish cemetary that is maintained by the lone surviving half-Jewish citizen. Nobody could tell me what happened to the once thriving Jewish community of St. Francisville.
Short thoughts:
Dogs. Yesterday two riders were bitten by a dog. They went to the ER and are fine. Now that we are in more populated country there are more dogs and more dogs running free. Candice blows her whistle and it stops most of them in their tracks, although one doberman appeared to be deaf, resulting in the fastest ride of her life... Sue squirts her water bottle at them. Kat sweet talks them.
There was one incident where Candice was blowing at the same time that Kat was sweet talking which made for a very confused dog.
Debbie invited one to chase her and the poor little thing (it's legs couldn't have been more than 4 inches long) kept up with her for a mile at 18 mph. Eventually it couldn't even bark and we felt so concerned that Micki, who was sagging for the day, drove it home.
Our longest day - 127 miles. Most of the women did it! Some did most of it, between 100-127. I was bummed because it was my day to sag. Actually I was fortunate because Carol rode the first 63, and voluntarily sagged the second half so I could ride the second 63. Thank you Carol! Still, I was a little sad that I didn't get to go for it.
And the bridge we were supposed to cross was OUT. Very out as in largely non-existant. Most of the riders carried their bikes over a hairy, high, falling apart bridge, and rode on. It was a great adventure. As the sag I had to detour around, boring.
Many of the women are feeling ready for the trip to be over, a little home sick, variations on these themes. Some feel tired, miss their own beds, husbands, friends. While I share some of these feelings I cannot say I am ready for the trip to be over. I feel as if I could go on forever.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Crawfish, Crayfish, Crawdaddies and a nun
Guess what? They are all the same thing! (Except for the nun).
They look like small lobsters, about 4 inches long, and they are boiled in oil, spices and jalapenos. To eat them you tear off the tail and peel it. It's a lot of work. You are left with a tiny but delicious piece of spicy fish. To get a "meal" takes hours. The generally recommended "serving" is 5 pounds per person and eating them would be the evenings entertainment.
We got to try boiled Cajun crawafish last night when a local Woman Tours alumna showed up at our hotel in Oupelousa with 60 pounds of boiled crawfish and a nun.
(The nun happens to run the school she works for - but I just couldn't resist saying "60 pounds of crawfish and a nun.")
Louisiana: many roads have cracks with grass growing out of them, drivers have been patient and courteous, honeysuckle blooms by the side of the road, road kill now includes turtles and snakes, roadside restaurants include gumbo and etouffe, fewer Bud Light cans by the side of the road than Texas, lots of loose dogs. Speaking of dogs - I would have expected to find big tough macho dogs but a large percentage of the dogs chasing us are of the small and yappy variety.
Tomorrow we cross the Mississippi River! Because the river is flooded the ferry we were scheduled to take is not running. Instead the group will be sagged in two groups in a three hour round trip to St. Francisville where we have a layover day.
They look like small lobsters, about 4 inches long, and they are boiled in oil, spices and jalapenos. To eat them you tear off the tail and peel it. It's a lot of work. You are left with a tiny but delicious piece of spicy fish. To get a "meal" takes hours. The generally recommended "serving" is 5 pounds per person and eating them would be the evenings entertainment.
We got to try boiled Cajun crawafish last night when a local Woman Tours alumna showed up at our hotel in Oupelousa with 60 pounds of boiled crawfish and a nun.
(The nun happens to run the school she works for - but I just couldn't resist saying "60 pounds of crawfish and a nun.")
Louisiana: many roads have cracks with grass growing out of them, drivers have been patient and courteous, honeysuckle blooms by the side of the road, road kill now includes turtles and snakes, roadside restaurants include gumbo and etouffe, fewer Bud Light cans by the side of the road than Texas, lots of loose dogs. Speaking of dogs - I would have expected to find big tough macho dogs but a large percentage of the dogs chasing us are of the small and yappy variety.
Tomorrow we cross the Mississippi River! Because the river is flooded the ferry we were scheduled to take is not running. Instead the group will be sagged in two groups in a three hour round trip to St. Francisville where we have a layover day.
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